Having an aperitif, or enjoying a pre-dinner drink, is a practice that dates back at least as far as the 17^th century in Europe. However, both then and now, the aperitif has been seen mainly as a commencement ritual for dinner. All too often, the potential of the aperitif to further prepare the palate and enhance the enjoyment of dinner has been ignored. Take the North American practice of drinking martinis (of the vodka/gin variety) before dinner, for example. I can't think of anything more likely to destroy and overpower the palate. In France, the gastronomic potential of the custom is slightly better understood, but France is country steeped in tradition, and traditionally the French have taken to enjoying a light white wine, a white wine or champagne cocktail (think kir or kir royale), a fortified wine (Dubonnet, or any of the various brands of white or red vermouth) or an anise-based liqueur (Pernod Ricard, Pastis) before dinner. As aperitifs, these drinks are hardly misguided and I suppose each has its place. Nothing beats a kir after a long day in the sun. And there are times when nothing can replace the ritual involved with drinking Pernod (pastis is usually served deconstructed, especially in the south of France. Patrons construct their drink from separate glasses of water, ice and pastis). I suppose there are even times when a gin martini would be an ideal choice before dinner - especially on those occasions when you suspect you might not actually want to taste your food. However, for the gastronome, the ideal aperitif is one that opens up the palate and gets those digestive juices flowing. I can think of nothing that does this quite as well as Campari.

Campari, an Italian liquer, is often characterized as a bitter, a description I find fails to do justice to the complexity of Campari on the palate. The original Campari recipe, created created by Gaspare Campari in the 19^th century, is a closely guarded secret, known only by the directory of the Campari factory in Milan. Cocktail enthusiasts have made sport of trying to identify its more than 60 ingredients and it is exactly this unimitable flavour profile, a bizarre and dynamic combination of herbal, sweet and bitter, that makes Campari the ideal aperitif.

A single sip of Campari exercises your palate, forcing your tongue through its ranges of spicy and sour, sweet and bitter. Upon warming up your palate, the finish is refreshing and I suspect it is that mystery combination of herbs that gets your stomach pumping and those digestive enzymes flowing. Whatever the reason, it works. And whats more - it tastes divine.

Really it does. Nothing like what you expect. Like this great ad.



As an aperitif, I find Campari is best with a splash of club soda, with or without ice. However, for those long summer nights, when it is too hot to eat a real dinner, I love to sip a classic Campari cocktail, the Negroni, while nibbling on olives and charcuterie.


Negroni Cocktail

1 part gin
1 part Campari
1/4 - 1/2 part red vermouth

Shake in a martini shaker with ice. Strain into a chilled martini glass (if served neat) or in into a highball glass (if served with ice.) Garnish with an orange slice or lemon wedge.

And enjoy.

Note: I've been singing the praises of Campari, but you should know - it's a bit of an acquired taste. Most people don't like their first time. But hang in there. Chances are you didn't love your first taste of alcohol or your first beer. But you kept at it. So keep at this. Trust me. Your life will be better for it.