225 rue Vaugirard
75015, Paris
01 43 06 51 66
Metro: Volontaires
www.lemarcab.fr
Mon- Fri: 12 - 2 pm / 7:30pm - 10pm
Sat - Sun 12 - 2:30pm/7:30pm - 10:30pm


Disclosure: I am a sucker for the underdog. I am the person that really wanted South Korea to win the World Cup in 2002, and Russia the EuroCup in 2008. And I must confess – I secretly devour sentimental stories of paupers winning over princesses and of pauperettes finding their prince. So when we happened upon this nearly empty restaurant on a recent Friday night, I, perhaps unlike most people, was predisposed to love everything I saw.

And honestly, there was little not to love about this restaurant, tucked into the 15e, across from metro Volontaires. The room is an exceptionally well-balanced dialogue between the sophisticated whispers of the muted earth-tone palette and the ostentatious boasts of crystal chandeliers and accents of gold. It is a trendy mix of sleek and modern surfaces (tables, shelves, bar) and luxe aristocratic comfort with deep banquettes, velvety drapes, and a contemporary take on Louis XV chairs.

The service was definitely luxe. Not only was the waiter, funny, friendly and attentive, he politely switched to English after hearing my awful accent in French. And when I tried to refill our own wine glasses, the waiter quickly appeared, lifting the bottle from my hand. “Don't take my job from me,” he joked. “With la crise, I might not be able to find a new one.” Perhaps la crise is going to transform service in Paris, as farflung restaurants like this one do everything they can to woo and keep customers.

So what about the food? Froggy and I both took the menu decouverte – appetizer, main course and dessert for 35 euro. I was excited to try my grapefruit millefeulle with black olive tapenade. I had recently stumbled across a similar recipe in the New York Times with oranges. It seemed like such a simple idea. But it sounded so good. And it was. At its best , the crisp and refreshing sweetness of the pink greatfruit perfectly off-set the bitter saltiness of the tapenade. However, at times, the grapefruit was overwhlemed by the heavy handed dosage of tapenade. And the lack of harmony in the presentation was puzzling. While conceptually sound, the clash of the pink and brown of the millefeuille with the clumps of red pepper and gun-metal anchovies flanking it were jarring in a room where so much effort had gone into making it aesthetically perfect. But Froggy's terrine of foie-gras was perfectly silky, if a little unimaginative and the bread was outstanding .

Froggy followed his terrine with a spicy satayed beef accompanied with potatoes, mushrooms and purple artichoke. The beef was tender and the sauce had a respectable kick, while being balanced enough not to overwhelm the flavour of the beef. I had a salmon medallions with horseradish sauce, confit cucumber and basmati rice. The salmon was done to a perfect medium, but the sauce lacked the spark and kick necessary to harmonize the pairing with cucumber confit.

Dessert was the trio of crème brulee for me, the clemetine salad and sorbet for Froggy. Both were perfect. And while, for fear of insomnia, I usually avoid coffee after dinner, this restaurant offers and impressive range of them. I just had to try the Jamaican coffee, in Paris a rare treat. However, it wasn't quite good enough to justify my sleepness night after. But if you are immune to the late night effects of caffeine, go for it.

The wine list is typical and well priced. There is a short selection of wines available by the glass.

This restaurant is doing everything right. Great ambiance and service. Interesting food that will probably get better. So if you find yourself, like us, without a reservation on Friday, try this place. But hurry. It is a relatively new restaurant (opened November 2008) so I am willing to bet it won't be long before the word gets out. And reservations will be required.

In a nutshell: Great ambiance and service, conceptually sound menu, interesting finds

Price: Appetizers 8 - 10 euros, Entrees 12 - 22 euros, Desserts 10 euros, 3 course menu- 35 euros

Reservations: Why not?