Grenouille Confit
The Gastronomic Adventures of a Duck and a Frog in Paris

Paris is a city full of great restaurants modestly tucked behind unassuming facades on otherwise unnotable streets. This is a city that rewards gastronomic exploration. An epicurean explorer at heart, this is a place where I share my discoveries with you, as well as, some tips and advice on navigating the waters. Whether you are a visitor looking to avoid the ubiquitous traps of over-priced mediocrity or you are resident looking to (re-) discover the gastromic wealth of this city, I want you to eat well in the city that I love.

Tips for Tourists: Avoid Service Continu



So you've been dutifully visiting all that you've been told to visit in Paris. You've been to Notre Dame. You've braved the lines at the Louvre. And being the peppy sport that you are, you even forwent the elevator, dragging yourself up the stairs at the Eiffel Tower. You've been busy. And I don't blame you. Paris is an incredible city, with many things to see and do. But if you are like most North American tourists, you ate an early breakfast so you could beat the crowds and you probably had a sandwich or crepe for lunch, while walking (somewhere close to noon). So now, its 6pm and you are rightfully starving. Your stomach is growling and your companions are getting cranky. As you and your loved ones drag yourselves along the cobbled stone streets, clutching at your howling bellies, you make a wrong turn. Damn. There's nothing and no one on this street, but the thought of turning back makes you feel weak. There are black spots swirling in the corners of your eyes, but you go on. Luckily for you, you spot a small, authentic enough looking bistrot at the end of the street. The bistrot is empty, but the door is open. What the hell, you figure.

You and your friends stand grouped, backs together, like frightened cows, by the door. You wait. And wait. You try not to notice the nervous-looking dishwasher watching you strangely from the window to the kitchen. You hear people talking. You know they are talking about you. Cooks push their way to the window to gawk at you from the kitchen in turn. You shift your weight and look around, pretending not to see. Finally, someone emerges from the depths of the bistrot. You explain that you would like a table for dinner. The man removes the pen from his ear and flips open a large black book. What time? Maybe it was your bad French, so you explain. Oh.... you want to eat now? His mouth twitches. He can hardly restrain his smile as he tells you service doesn't start until 8. As he escorts you politely to the door, you get the distinct impression that he's chomping at the insides of his cheek.

So you and your friends slink out of the restaurant dejected. You are now officially on the verge of fainting. You think you might be starting to hallucinate. You can distinctly hear the scrape of cutlery on plates. And glasses clinking. You want to warn one of your friends to catch you if you fall. And then you turn.

On the corner, there is a hopping bistrot, with a terasse full of people....eating!. A big sign - Service Non-Stop – crowns the menu board. Saved in the nick of time. You mouth waters as you mentally savour your delicious (and authentic) French meal. I guess, this is your lucky day right?

Wrong. French restaurants (the ones that actually serve the French) close between lunch and dinner. If you want to avoid tourist traps in Paris and eat like a Parisian, then you must alter your clock. I know. I'm sorry. But French people generally don't eat dinner before 8pm and all the restaurants that you actually want to go to (trust me on this) won't start service before 7:30pm. So eat a late lunch or have a snack.

I've been there too. I used to feel like I was going to faint by the time I could eat dinner. I would fill up on bread and barely make it through my first course. And now 8pm reservations feel so early. Believe me, if I can change my clock, so can you.
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Contributors

Daphne Duck

is a Canadian writer, who loves to eat, drink, and . . . write about it. Fortunately for her, Paris is the perfect place to do all three.

Benoit the Froggy

is a computer wizard by day, unrepentant sensualist by night. He is also Daphne's navigator. Without him, she would always be lost.

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