Grenouille Confit
The Gastronomic Adventures of a Duck and a Frog in Paris

Paris is a city full of great restaurants modestly tucked behind unassuming facades on otherwise unnotable streets. This is a city that rewards gastronomic exploration. An epicurean explorer at heart, this is a place where I share my discoveries with you, as well as, some tips and advice on navigating the waters. Whether you are a visitor looking to avoid the ubiquitous traps of over-priced mediocrity or you are resident looking to (re-) discover the gastromic wealth of this city, I want you to eat well in the city that I love.

My Fab Four: Four Restaurants You Should Visit When in Paris

While, for better or worse, I love trying new restaurants, there a few places that I eat at a lot. These four are among my favourite restaurants in Paris, restaurants that if you are looking for great food (rather than a great view) you'd do well not to miss.


Chez L'Ami Jean

27 rue Malar
75007
Phone: 01 47 05 86 89
Metro: La Tour Marbourg
www.amijean.eu

OK, the cat's been out of the bag on this one for a while now. It's a chaotic room, with friendly, if at times, frazzled service. This is definitely not a place for gazing into your lover's eyes over candlelight, but if you don't mind being close to your neighbour (I'm talking thigh-rubbing, elbow-knocking close) then this restaurant is a must whenever you're in Paris.

It's hard to pick a favourite restaurant here. There are so many good ones, each offering a slightly different experience. But if someone stuck that proverbial gun to my head and forced me to name mine, then I would probably have to say Chez L'Ami Jean. And gun or no gun, it's a designation I don't take lightly. My first time here, I ate the best cod I have ever eaten. It was simple, yet the earth (fresh basil and mozzarella), the sun (unbelievably ripe tomato) and the sea (cod cooked to perfection) came together on my plate and in my mouth in an event I can only describe as unadulterated bliss. I'm not exaggerating. I was changed. I still dream of reliving gastronomic rapture such as I experienced eating that cod. Far from a one hit wonder, Chez L'Ami Jean has proven itself consistent. Sablefish topped with beet chips. Stuffed cornish hen thighs. Each divine. And Froggy has been known to shamelessly wolf down the entire jar of potato purée served here as a side.

I won't lie. It can be hectic here. Most gastro-bistrots aim to turn their tables twice, but I've been told that Chez L'Ami Jean tries to turn their tables at least 3 times. That means if you are arriving for anything but the first service, you will likely have to wait. I've waited for over 30 minutes for a table with a reservation – don't even bother if you don't have one. Mind you, we were served some charcuterie and wine while we waited, but there is no adequate bar area, so this practice makes for a cramped, very busy room. But hey, if volume like this keeps the prices down, I'm all for it. At 34 euros for three courses, this menu really is one of the best deals in town.

And quite frankly, I like the atmosphere. It tends to loosen people up. While Parisians are used to being crammed into close quarters with strangers (take, for example, the unbelievably small aisles of the metro or apartments where you can stick your arm out the window and touch your neighbours across the vis-a-vis), they generally try to ignore them. But at Chez L'Ami Jean, a man two tables down will lean over his neighbour to ask about your plate. This is a place where a Japanese businessman, who ordered a deconstructed rice pudding, thought nothing of asking down a row of tables 'Comment on mange ça? Comment on mange ça?'. We were of no help. We couldn't stop laughing. Of course, he was laughing too. Comic and absurd. This is the effect of great food.


Le Beurre Noisette

68 rue Vasco de Gama
75015
Phone: 01 48 56 82 49
Metro: Lourmel


Le Beurre Noisette
is a gastro-bistrot in the middle of nowhere - with really great food. They used to have an amazing appetizer – pig's feet carpaccio with lentils topped with shaved parmesan. I haven't seen it for a while, but if they have this when you are there, order it. It is outstanding! I have also had sumptuous medallions of lamb and pork belly here so soft and tender it melted like butter on my tongue. And Froggy swears that the fromage blanc served with strawberries and pineapple was the best he ever had . I'd trust his opinion – this is one frog who loves his fromage blanc.

The room is larger and quieter than Chez L'Ami Jean(and the tables further apart). The service is friendly, but like most places with a quality to price ratio like this (3 courses – 35 euros, 6 course tasting menu - 45 euros), it can get busy. It's a little bit off the beaten path, but this restaurant is a close second to Chez L'Ami Jean. So go!

Croccante

148 rue Vaugirard
75015
Phone: 01 47 83 37 28
Metro: Falguiere

As I live in France, I eat a lot of French food and drink a lot of French wine. However, those who know me know that I love (love, love) Italian food and wine. So I was delighted to discover the real deal here in Paris less than a 20 minute walk from my door.

When you enter Croccante, there will likely be a line. And you will almost certainly be greeted by a short, stout man, who sings out 'Buona Sera', from wherever he is in the room, every time someone walks through the door. While the food here is traditional south Italian fare, I can't think of another place that does it better (or more authentically) here in Paris. Appetizer offerings include a bresaola carpaccio prepared in the classic way with olive oil and lemon, served over arugula and with parmesan cheese. The vegetable antipasti is among the best I've had, and the owner will often offer you a custom mix of vegetables, meats and cheeses that best satisfies the tastes at your table. The pasta is fresh and authenthic. The menu changes regularly, but the pasta con sarde and a baked annelini pasta are among our favourites. Croccante also offers traditional Italian pizzas.

The food here is great, but one of the best things about Croccante for me is their casual approach to great wine and a selection that favours Italian wine from the south. There is no actual wine list to speak of here. Instead you can ask the owner to suggest something from his cellar. Chances are, he will convince you to try something you've never heard of, and if you're a fan of Nero D'Avola, like I am, you won't suffer from lack of choice. That, in itself, is enough to recommend this restaurant. Nero D'Avola is not that common here - I'm usually happy if an Italian restaurant offers just one.

The prices are fair as well. Froggy and I eat here often, and dinner (appetizer and entree) for two with wine never comes to more than 75 euros. And what's more, every time we're here, we always find ourselves dining among Italian expats or tourists. Now if that doesn't convince you, ...

Jadis

208 rue de la Croix Nivert
75015
Phone: 01 45 57 73 20
Metro: Convention or Porte de Versailles

Jadis, like Le Beurrre Noisette is another gastro-bistrot on the edges of the 15th. It is quieter and smaller than Le Beurre Noisette, and attracts an older, very French crowd – the hallmark of great French food. The foie gras chantilly with beetroot was so good, I couldn't help but moan aloud. I've also had perfectly cooked monkfish here with sauerkraut and raisins, and a wonderful pollack with lentils. The service and ambiance here is friendly, if a bit reserved. Perhaps in reverence to the food.
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Contributors

Daphne Duck

is a Canadian writer, who loves to eat, drink, and . . . write about it. Fortunately for her, Paris is the perfect place to do all three.

Benoit the Froggy

is a computer wizard by day, unrepentant sensualist by night. He is also Daphne's navigator. Without him, she would always be lost.

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